
A smoky kitchen lit only by a fire and daylight from the single door is the heart of Nepalese cooking. The soul is the thousands of women who crouch uncomplaining over the single source of heat, juggling pans to create a daily feast for their families.






Along the highways cooks magic meals for travellers from the most meagre of ingredients, a skill close to alchemy. They don’t rely on expensive and difficult to find spices, opting instead for spices they can grow or forage.




